Friday, December 30, 2011
Our group
M'ap rive
M'ap rive.
Arriving in Haiti is more than just a cultural transition. The difference at times for a first time foreigner can feel as if the internal system must shut down in order to reboot as they acclimate to Haitian culture. Stepping out of the airport, one is approached by dozens of baggage porters all wearing bright red shirts and their aggressive pursuit can feel as if one is being pulled in all directions. The amalgam of sleepiness with a history of news coverage highlighting the disasters and poverty in Haiti can be jarring. We all arrived at the airport at different times. In the past we have all been on the same flight, but because of the holidays, we were scattered all around the country and the cost was too high to be on a specific flight. The airport is chaotic, but it is perfectly safe. Everyone had the number of our driver from the hospital who I had worked with before; he spoke English, and was waiting just outside to pick us up with a sign with our name on it. It was only 100 feet distance, but it's an intense stretch and can't really be described – it must be experienced. In part, it is the confusion of starting again, when the old system crashes, our perception must grow and learn anew. Our previous experiences can't analyze the input. We must leave the predictable and familiar and enter into a culturally diametric paradigm. In the end, our capacity to function in the unfamiliar, when we are naïve and groping in the dark, is expanded. We become more capable, not in any specific skill, but deeper down at the level where the system itself operates.
Day 1 – August 2011
I descended into the Caribbean's tropical, humid heat that had a density like we were walking under water without the weightlessness. Haitian Kompas music, as part of the welcome wagon, displaced through the disembarking passengers in a raw, acoustic simplicity – four guys, a few instruments all awkwardly hand painted with Western Union advertisements. I couldn't help but smile, in fact I couldn't stop smiling. I was home to a certain degree and there was a familiar nervousness and excitement rumbling below the surface. The excitement was that I was returning to Haiti. A country inextricably woven into who I am, a relationship that began at such a young age (14) that it is impossible to say which parts of myself it impacted. Yet this time, after months of preparation, planning, cajoling, and convincing I was leading a group of my peers. It was a bit like being 8 years old and showing someone for the first time the contents of my super-secret box that I kept tucked in the deepest shadows beneath my bed, not quite that personal but personal none the less. It was exhilarating and the Haitian airport didn't disappoint. Haitians have never had lines especially, not like our omnipresent social, line etiquette. We all just piled into the immigrations room and milled about until we miraculously were shuttled forward. The official customs business is simple and fairly easy, but a simple thing like the baggage carousel breaking down produced, with only slight hyperbole, a total breakdown in social order. In a mob-like fashion though without violence or malice that the term mob conjures, the passengers swarmed the 4 square foot hole as our baggage was being fed through by hand from the tarmac. This hap-hazard method would get the job done, but what irked me, what I could feel erupting in with such vehement ire was just how completely illogical it all was. Yet I also loved it, in fact, I could have cheered them on for the same reason and to watch this inveterately American side of me baulk and insist that this way of dispersing bags was the wrong way to disperse bags was equally amusing. I had stepped out side my comfort-zone enough to hear but not take too seriously my cultural expectations of how things ought to happen. Granted most would agree that it's inappropriate to hurt yourself or others, but nothing like that was going down hear. This was luggage and there was no real hurry.
There are only a few situations where you can see how cultures and common laws cultivate social norms, which are then re-enforced by varying levels of social etiquette. Some may believe that certain social behaviors are rigid, stuffy, and de-humanizing while others just down the street will see them as indications of classiness, sophistication, and appropriate public decorum. Yet standing in the unvetted Haitian chaos as everyone grabs, tosses, stacks bags unceremoniously throughout the terminal, and in such stark relief to Newark International airport where I had just come, the scene read like a glaring neon sign that said "appropriateness is cultural" and that often we unconsciously believe that our appropriate behavior is the appropriate behavior. What makes it so hard is that when the underlying rules shift so dramatically, the anxiety is real, and it feels as if the plane is coming in for a landing and the control tower has suddenly gone silent, or it feels genuinely disrespectful when we don't receive thank you cards or a nod of appreciation when holding open the door for someone. What I have learned is that I'm too mired in my cultural up bringing to see things clearly. Something's will always feel off and yet not be in any way disrespectful, and so I feebly try to shift my attention toward people's intention rather than their behavior. Here in Haiti, in the apparent chaos, at least from my frame of reference, it seemed as if the rules of the game had changed radically and I loved it! Nothing like spending time on Mars to see the Earth that before had been too close and too consistent to reveal how profoundly it had shaped me and how naïve was my sense of volition. Welcome to Haiti!
Gerome
Challenges of nursing in Haiti
One of the most frustrating things so far about working in Haiti is the lack of resources. As a health care provider nothing is more difficult to deal with then having a patient who is sick and suffering and you are unable to provide proper treatment for that patient. It is heartbreaking to have to stand back and not be able to do anything. I have learned that I must focus on the things that can be done and not the things that cannot. Often the simplest task becomes complex when you have to take time to stop and figure out how to adapt your care related to the resources that are available.





















